Wow is not having a job ever a lot of work. I can't believe how long it's taking me to get around to finishing the New Zealand posts. I feel as if, therefore I have, considerably less control over my surroundings in my current environment.
Tuesday December 11th
66.5km The most grueling 66.5km ever!
Today has just started, yet it’s promising to be a bit of a nightmare. Winds are gusting and opposing. The food reserves are low. The climbs are steep. I’m walking up the hills as I don’t have low enough gears. If the wind continues, it’s going to be a very long day. Man vs. his environment. Why aren’t I better prepared?
Evening:
I feel tired enough that I must have lived at least two days today. Turns out the ridiculous elevation gain was due to Porters pass. The wind eventually died down and the hills eased up. Still a very short distance at only 66.5km. The hardest 66.5km of my life! Too many of them were spent pushing the bike up ridiculous grades. I never did find a place to buy food today, but.. I was asking about a store at a small village and met a traveling couple from France. Robert and Martine, who were leaving New Zealand shortly. They invited me to have Tea in the back of their campervan and fed me snacks as well as giving me food! Considering that I’d likely still be on the bike now, looking to find a town with a store, I’m very grateful. I have a great time talking with Robert and Martine who are world travelers on the road for several years now. Their website is: http://www.kookynet.net/
The scenery was gorgeous today. I counted place after campable place. I stayed at a free camping ground in a national park. Free despite being a national park. What a concept! For those readers who aren’t Canadian, it costs several dollars per day just to have the right to be in a National Park in Canada. Alright, it’s after 8:30 and I’m exhausted. (Woke up at 6:20a.m. today). Time to lay down. Goodnight world. Oh yeah, what super friendly people here. I have yet to fail to be amazed!
Wednesday December 12th
End 216.8
Start 206.8
I cycled a mere 10 kilometers today as not only was the water pouring down strongly, checking-in with the Information Centre at Arthur’s Pass suggested that it would not be wise to continue as severe weather warnings were in effect.
(I wish I’d taken pictures of the place where I ended up that day. If it’s raining, I tend not to take pictures. It was somewhere between a shack and a hostel. The owner lives about two hours away by car. There are no onsite staff. The owner gives you the keycode for the door. You pay for your nights stay by putting money in the honesty box. He also has an onsite internet café on the premises, again on the honesty system. The name of the hostel is called “The Sanctuary”. There are lovely books to read, a wood burning stove and an amazing amount of charm. It is as much an expression of human kindness and a reflection of how this world could be as it a place to stay. If you read this and are ever in Arthur’s Pass, stay there. You won’t be disappointed.)
Thursday December 13th
End 328.7
Start 216.8
Distance 111.9
Highlights included:
-Ridiculous amount of rain
-Crazy descents: At one point there was a sign stating a 16% Grade downhill for 2 kilometers.
I didn’t pedal for the next twenty. I was amazed by how hot the rims of my bike got and how awful the brake pads started to smell. Just like big trucks do sometimes, I stopped and waited for the rims to cool off from time to time before continuing on.
I camped possibly legally on a beach. The rain was so heavy that there wasn’t another soul to be seen.
(Apparently the Sanctuary was interesting enough that I wrote about it twice…)
Yesterday was really cool. I stayed at a hostel with a friendly Norwegian couple. I biked all of 10 kilometers due to heavy rain combined with severe rain storm warnings.
The hostel was aptly named “The Sanctuary”. Everything was on the honor system and there was a great wood stove! I’m so glad I crashed there for the day. Today I left the friendly folk and fire in order to trek in new experiences. I wore light clothes because, well, they’d be soaked through anyway. Uphill and on the flats I was more than warm enough.
On the descents I was cold. At 112 kilometers it was the longest day so far. I feel tired. I’m sitting at a walk-in only beach right now. I’m in my little tent totally content with life. I wish my stuff were drier, but I’m fairly dry now.
Remember, next time, no Jeans!
Friday December 14th
Apparently I didn’t write anything this day. How odd.
So, let’s put some pictures in here.
This is just another place where I ended up camping for the night.
There's a beach underneath there somewhere!
Saturday December 15th
End 519.6
Start 430.5
Distance 89.1
Today was lovely. No rain at all and I’ve bought chocolate. Everything is slowly drying out. I hope that dreadful odour isn’t me or my clothes! Sadly, it’s likely both. More crazy hills but I’m getting better at them. I stopped on road sides numerous times today just to eat a snack or to sit by a river. I’ve seen immense beauty in the last days. The bike is running great as it passed 500km of service. I camped early today as I saw a gorgeous spot. I had the tent up by 6p.m. What a time to go to bed. I don’t miss internet or conversation at the moment. I feel very at ease with the world.
Sunday December 16th
End 591.4
Start 519.6
Distance 78.2
(Written from the day after perspective)
I discovered the thickest fog today. This was probably the wettest day. I camped in a really interesting and likely highly illegal spot. Knight’s point. There just happened to be an awning on the main shelter that was large enough for me to set up a tent. So I did… at 4p.m. I found the fog to be too thick to reasonably continue. I could see at most 30 meters ahead. (I love that bicycle odometers have a 10 meter resolution). I can’t imagine people could see me at all. Besides, I was cold. It was a good day for endurance testing, not so great a day for enthrallment.
I had fun talking with folk who stopped in tour busses at Knight’s point. I distinctly recall saying the quote below when asked about the legality of my chosen camping spot.
“If they take me away, it will be to somewhere warmer!” –Erich Welz (No.. no one ever came to take me away)